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Australian Aeromodellers Tribute As often happens, advantages in performance became paramount to winning, and we were both looking for "a bit more time".
About this time, I felt that a cambered wing section might give me an edge, and proceeded to build a wing along those lines. The wing area remained the same and no other changes took place at that time. This was a surprise to Ross, but he was quick to respond. I helda slight edge for a while and then Ross countered with a wing of his own design, and so it went. Many changes took place in this period, such as a slim downed fuselage, enlarged tail surfaces, parallel lift struts, a better prop hanger, lighter wheels, and experimentation with rubber sizes. 05 sec's to 1min. 08 sec's. Neither of us was never able to best the 1 min. 08 sec's in that building. Dawn was drawing to an end. As a result I lost touch with Ross as this period ended. The HR was not forgotten during this period; and short term memory loss was still a few years down the road. And then.(sounds of a fanfare) the mail box (yes Clancy, again) spewed forth a letter from Mr. Northrop for my attention. A cute little rubber job that is easy to build and flyHistory"Hangar Rat" owes its existence to the "Sig Parasol," a simple, easy to fly, tissue covered profile model. Having built one of these with a cambered wing, I proceeded to fly it every lunch hour in the hangar, where I worked, until it was so tattered it was retired to a place of honor above my bench. It is easy to adjust and build and will bring pleasure to both the beginner and the jaded R/C nut (like me). If you're an old hand at the game you probably have your own ideas about a lighter airframe, better prop, etc. Regardless, have fun!ConstructionLet's start with the wing and get that miserable so and so out of the way. Using the side view of the fuselage, cut a template from 1/32 plywood of the rib profile. Reinforce the edges of this template with a Cyanoacrylate type glue to toughen them against knife knicks. Using this template, slice out ten ribs 3/32 deep from 1/20 sheet and two full depth ribs from 1/16 sheet. Use the dihedral jig to set the root rib angle accurately and glue the root rib (the full depth rib) in place. Add the gussets at the root and allow to dry thoroughly. The only point worth noting here is the method of joining the stabilizer leading edges. This is stronger than a butt joint. The 1/32 trim tab is cut out now, sanded, and set aside. Do not glue to the fin at this time. Pick a good straight piece and after cutting to length, taper the bottom (from front to rear) to 1/4 x 1/8. Note that the tail skid and rear hook have a tang that pierces the motor stick approximately 1/8 of an inch. Bind the hook and skid neatly with cotton thread and cement securely. The landing gear is pressed over the motor stick in the proper position and it is also bound and glued in place. Use the lightest possible grade of tissue available, iron it flat, and attach with water thinned white glue. Cover only the top of the wings and stabilizer and one side of the fin. At this point, glue the cabane to the wing in its correct position. Ensure that it is perpendicular when the wing is level (equal dihedral under each tip). If such is not the case, apply your sanding block to the surfaces that contact the wing ribs until corrected. (Note: the cabane glues to the side of the root rib.)Accurately assemble the tail group to the fuselage. It may be necessary to remove a small sliver of tissue from the stabilizer center rib in order to get a good bond between the fin and stabilizer. Rat" from foam or balsa, decorate, and glue in place. I used a 7 inch plastic prop, and the prop hanger was the one supplied with the Sig Parasol. This simply slides onto the stick. If you wish, a metal strap or aluminum tube type can be used instead, as long as it's securely bound and glued. Make sure that 3 to 4 of down thrust is built into the hanger, no matter what type you use. Because of the large stabilizer, the CG, is further aft than might be expected. Once balanced, mark the correct position of the cabane and glue it in place. Ensure that the wing is properly levelled and the incidence angle is correct. The small "X" on the wing drawing gives its location on the wing, and the side view of the fuselage indicates the struts' position. Although the struts' forward position is unorthodox, I placed it there for a reason. if the "Rat" contacts an obstruction, the strut takes the brunt of the collision and protects the leading edge of the wing. Adjust the glide for a flat right turn of about 20 feet in diameter. My "Rat" flies best on a 17 inch single loop of flat 1/8 inch rubber. This is for the aforementioned 20 foot ceiling. No doubt you'll want to experiment to find the best prop/rubber combination for your own site. In recounting this series of events please be very aware that I am not seeking any recognition for myself or in any way attempting to diminish anything that Max Starick did. After migrating to Australia I'd been tolerably successful in motor sport driving at Claremont Speedway and then in circuit racing ar Wanneroo in both Mini Coopers and Jaguars. Racing cars were too much to drag around Australia so I sold up, bought myself a Triumph GT 6 and went back to aeromodelling attempting to throw myself into R/C. From Melbourne Frank asked me to move first to the Sydney and Brisbane venues but eventually to be put in charge of the creation and opening of Dirty Dicks Adelaide. The location of Dirty Dicks was in Pirie St and just round the corner in East Terrace was a model shop and it was there I met Max Starick one Saturday morning. Max worked for Telecom in those days but in the model shop part time. I'd been having the greatest of difficulty until Max got me building Old Timers, bigger and somewhat slower than my previous efforts they gave me more thinking time! This was a big step forward from my build one, crash one per week!Max was an absolute delight to be with and as I was virtually alone in Adelaide during the conversion work on the restaurant he and his wife Edna really looked after me. I frequently had dinner with them at their home in Greenacres where Max had converted the end of his garage into two spaces, a workshop and a magazine repository. Max had been in the Navy in WWII and yet had still managed to continue collecting. He had Aeromodeller back to issue number one(published in the mid thirties) as well as enormous collections of Air Trails, Model Airplane News, Radio Modeller, RCM, RCM E and endless similar. I'd add that Max had a superb rubber stripper that he'd purchased from somewhere in the then Eastern Bloc (I believe Czechoslovakia) and I could get my rubber from him but for the average modeler kate spade bag sale online it would have to be standard 1/8 or 1/4. As 1/4 would be far too heavy we needed a design that used 1/8th and it was at this point I recalled seeing Harry Barr's Hangar Rat in a back issue of Model Builder and after dragging out Max's copy of the magazine we thought this could be a near perfect "introductory" class. By the time I next saw Max he'd actually produced some Rat kits which he proposed to sell at club meetings for $5.00. I know because I bought some of these and still have one unopened. David Hipperson and an unopened, Max Starick Hangar Rat Kit I got progressively busier with the restaurant but still found time for building and flying, remaining close to Max until I eventually returned to WA. When Jan and I got married Max's eldest son and his wife drove over to attend the wedding. By that time Max had really established the Hangar Rat class and to my knowledge produced over 5000 kits all by hand and still from that tiny workspace. Max StarickAeromodeller, Dec. 1997 He was what I really would refer to as a "gentle"man. A member of the Uniting Church Max seemed to derive genuine pleasure from helping others and in my experience nothing was too much trouble for him. His achievements and determination particularly his prolific output of Hangar Rats and his help to beginners is made all the more remarkable in that Max suffered from Angina and to my knowledge had at least one heart by pass operation. Hangar Rat RevisitedAeromodeller, Vol 63 No. 757 20 Nov 17 Dec. 1998download a 1000pixel image Hangar Rat Max Starick Variant 2, c.1980Aeromodeller, Vol 63 No. 757 20 Nov 17 Dec. "There lies salvation for the RC challenged", I thought. John Morrison's "Fly In Models Radio King Rat" Retaining the geometry of the original Rat with wing loadings of around 9g per dm2, attributes of slowness, extreme "cornering" ability and the mildest of stalls were assured. The "Fly In Models Radio King Rat" is the basis of this project. Mine flies beautifully just like a Rat! Friend Tom Brooks has also built one using the 2.75:1 KP00, and it flies equally well with a little less prop. Peter Mather, electric 'Hangar Rat' I used a geared KP00 motor (4.75:1 gearing), on two 50mAh NiCad cells. Initial test flying was with the kit red plastic prop lovely flight pattern and superb atmosphere, but overloaded motor and cells. The best performance solution for this model turned out to be the K folding props supplied with the 2.75:1 motor. These have alternative hubs (two, three or four blades) and blades (white with 45mm pitch and black with 60mm pitch), so can give a wide range of thrust and current draw for experimentation and trimming. Peter Mather, electric 'Hangar Rat'. Detail The best duration performance has been with three black blades, giving a long, slow climb, good cruise, and slow descent under kate spade new design power to land just as the battery 'dumps'. Note, this closely parallels the ideal trim for rubber power, except that we are after maximum revs to minimise current draw. The Hangar Rat kit is $8.50 or so from Fly In Models (Lawrie Kelsall, Murray Bridge). K bits and pieces same source. KP00 direct drive motor is around $A15.00, geared ones are more expensive, heavier, but much more efficient around $A40 or so. I moved the wing forward one inch (25mm) to help get the CG in the right place without having to put the batteries right down the back somewhere. Have also finished up reinforcing the centre cabane structure to ease impact damage with all the extra mass of the electrics. Total mass around 27gm. One other point for the ElectroRat make arrangements for both side and up/downthrust to be adjustable. I didn't, and the lack has given me some trimming challenges. All good fun. Charging My 'Little Black Box' charger was a present from Reg Goudge, and contains four 1200ish nicad cells, an LED, a switch and a resistor to limit the current. Two possibly simpler methods (both of which I use on various setups) are: 6W, 12V light globe from service station soldered permanently into a lead that connects directly to any 12V battery. The globe indicates charge is occurring, and limits current to less than 500mA (arf an amp). Clips or connector on aircraft end to suit your system. I have some with the little headphone socket and plug, and some connect via a modified clothes peg with wires stuck to it. Charge for a measured time to get the duration required (almost never a full charge). The charger I use for other things (Supernova 250 S) is quite happy charging single or two cells (or up to 25 cells). Make a suitable lead and read actual charge in mAh from the display. Have also heard that a direct charge will work if you simply have one cell more in the charging pack of large capacity cells (from your spares or discards) and connect straight to aircraft pack of one less little cells eg three cell 1200 pack (3.6V) to charge two cell 50mA flight battery. Timed charge again, by 'suck it and see' start with 10 secs and work up. The Foam RatWhen friend Paul Riseborough got hold of some of the elusive Depron' foam, I was keen to try out the material and decided to go for a well proven aerodynamic and structural design as a test bed. The Hangar Rat was the obvious choice, so I cut out a few ribs using the Rat template from kate spade outlet uk my kit, and went to work. Peter Mather, Depron 'E Rat', v1.0 The model is made entirely from 2mm Depron, except for a two sided balsa tray for the motor to sit in. The wing was curved for camber, before gluing, by rolling it on the carpet with a cardboard tube. Source:, Todd's Models The motor direct drives a Union 80 push on prop, and performance was so brisk that the prop is now running at around 50mm diameter to curb the climb. Peter Mather, Depron 'E Rat', v1.0. Detail The motor is held into its two sided kate spade laptop case sale mount by a small rubber band, so thrust is readily adjustable with thin ply packing.
The basic trim needed paper trim tabs for down elevator and left rudder, a lot of right thrust (fair enough) and a swag of upthrust (beats me!). This saved three grams overall, and brought the prop down several sizes to give the same performance. Perhaps the most successful feature of the design is its durability: you can carry it around without a box, and hand it to a beginner with confidence that he/she will have a lot of fun with very little risk of damage.
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